Full removal, never a cover-up
The old bead comes out completely — scraper, tool and solvent where needed. New silicone over old is why so many re-caulks fail in a year.
Re-caulking done properly
Caulking & sealing in Connecticut.
Caulk is cheap, and it protects everything expensive. Done properly, the old bead is removed fully, prepped dry, and sealed in one clean bead — not smeared over what was there.
Caulking & Sealing
How this is priced
A tub or shower re-seal is about an hour of work plus drying time. Several rooms fit one visit.
Tub or shower re-seal$120–$300 — old bead stripped, new silicone tooled smooth
Kitchen counters and sinksPerimeter joints re-sealed — quoted with the visit
Exterior joints and sillsFailed sealant around windows and doors replaced
Whole-house sealing visitHalf-day, $350–$600
No travel fee in the fourteen towns we serve. If the job takes less time than quoted, you pay less.
What's included
What this service covers.
The six things people book most, and what each one includes.
Mold-treated, dried, primed
Behind old bathroom caulk there is usually some mildew. It gets treated and given time to dry before anything new goes on.
The right sealant for the place
Sanitary silicone in wet areas, paintable acrylic where walls meet trim, polyurethane-grade outside. One tube does not fit all, so we carry the right ones.
Tooled, not fingered
A smooth, even bead pressed into the joint with a tool — so it seals the joint instead of just covering it.
Thresholds and transitions
Interior thresholds and floor transitions sealed where drafts and spills travel.
Weatherstripping as needed
Door and window seals checked while we are there, replaced where they have gone flat.
What we don't do
What we don't do, and who to call instead.
If a job needs a licensed trade, a permit, or an engineer, we tell you on the phone and point you to the right person.
- Shower pan rebuilds and waterproofing behind tile — that is specialist work and we tell you.
- Roof flashing and chimney sealant above ladder height.
- Structural cracks that need more than sealant — we tell you when a crack is a foundation problem, not a sealant problem.
- Asbestos-era sealant removal requiring abatement.
How it works
How a visit works, in three steps.
- 1
Tell us the rooms
Tub, shower, kitchen, sills — photos of the worst joints are enough to quote.
- 2
Flat price first
One number for the visit, including the right sealants for each place.
- 3
Strip, prep, seal
The old out, the new in, and a note on how long before the shower is used again — usually overnight.
Photos and a written summary after every visit, for family who could not be there.
Before & after
What the finished work looks like.
The same room before and after the visit. Drag the handle to compare.
After
Before
A shower re-sealed properly
A cracked, moldy bead at the tub fully removed and re-done in sanitary silicone — one clean bead, dried overnight before use.
After
Before
A doorway sealed and level
A proud, leaking threshold replaced flush and sealed at both sides during the same visit.
Local detail
How your town changes the work.
Connecticut's freeze-thaw cycle is hard on exterior sealant: a joint that flexes all winter is shot by the third summer. Around Berlin and Newington we see failed sill sealant on houses only ten years old — builder-grade sealant is not made for our winters.
In the older bathrooms of Kensington and New Britain two-families, tile meets tub in a 1920s configuration that needs a deeper, careful bead — and often hides water damage from the decades before. We look before we seal and tell you what we found.
Spring is caulking season here. Booked after the last freeze but before summer humidity, the sealants cure properly and last their full life — a scheduling detail that matters more than the brand on the tube.
Where this job comes up most
Every town page carries the housing stock, the roads and the timing for that place.
Licensed & insured in CT. The certificate goes out with a quote on request — useful when a family member is approving from out of state.
Before you book
Common questions.
Why does my tub caulk keep going moldy?
Usually because the old bead was covered rather than removed, or the cheapest silicone was used in a wet area. Full removal plus sanitary-grade silicone solves most of it; a bathroom that never dries out needs a fan looked at too.
How long before we can use the shower?
Standard silicone needs 12 to 24 hours. We tell you exactly when, and we would rather you wait the full time than undo the job.
Can you match the color?
White, clear, almond and bone cover almost everything here. We bring what matches your fixtures.
My kitchen counter seam is lifting — caulk or a bigger problem?
Sometimes one, sometimes the other. We look and tell you honestly — if the substructure has moved, sealant is a bandage and you deserve to know that.
Do you seal exterior windows and doors?
Yes — failed perimeter sealant replaced with a weatherproof grade, which is one of the quietest heating-bill improvements an older house can get.
What does it cost?
A tub or shower re-seal runs $120–$300. A whole-house sealing visit is a half-day at $350–$600, which is the best value if more than one room needs it.
How long should caulk last?
Good silicone in a shower should last five to ten years; acrylic around trim lasts longer. If it is moldy or cracked within a year, it went over old sealant or was the wrong type — which is why we remove the old bead completely.
Often booked together
Related services.
Call or text us what you need — plain words or a photo. You get a flat price the same day.